
The Spice Markets of Oaxaca
Chiles, chocolate and a grandmother who taught me to buy mole by smell alone.
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Chiles, chocolate and a grandmother who taught me to buy mole by smell alone.

A mountain hut, a communal table and the best bread I have ever eaten, carried up on someone’s back.

Twelve hours south on a slow train, with a window that never quite dried.

Salt, slate roofs and octopus on wooden plates: a week on Spain’s wet, wild corner.

Three nights in the Sahara taught me how little I need to say, and how much I want to look.

Five days of paddling, portaging and listening in the lakes north of Algonquin.