
The Spice Markets of Oaxaca
Chiles, chocolate and a grandmother who taught me to buy mole by smell alone.
Travel writing & photography
I’m Iris Chen, a writer and photographer in Vancouver. Field Notes collects the small, odd and tender things I find on the road: a spice stall at dawn, a rainy night train, a borrowed canoe.
About Iris
Featured essay

Chiles, chocolate and a grandmother who taught me to buy mole by smell alone.
Read the essay →